Pisco & San Francisco

It seems like there are only three types of people that have some knowledge of Pisco: (1) South Americans, specifically Peru where the liquor originates from, (2) people tat have visited South America, & (3) San Franciscans.

San Francisco has a long history with Pisco. Today San Francisco is the number one market for Pisco distribution in the world aside from South America. I have heard and read a few different accounts as to why Pisco became so popular in San Francisco, and both have to do with location. Back in the early 1920's and pre-prohibition, it was difficult to receive Rum from the Carribean (which changed with the opening of the Panama Canal) and it was also difficult to receive whiskey from the east mainly because it took so long to get to San Francisco. Therefore, San Francisco being a major port to the Pacific Ocean, Pisco started coming in from Peru and Chile.

Duncan Nicol, owner of the former Bar Exchange which stood where the Trans-America towers, was the first to create a cocktail using the new liquor that was derived grapes. It became known as the Pisco Punch. When Prohibition went into effect in San Francisco by 1922, the Bar Exchange Saloon closed its doors and somewhere in the course of time the recipe had been lost and today is the source of much debate on the true traditional Pisco Punch. After Prohibition Pisco was forgotten, but now with the rise of travel to South America and a renaissance of classic cocktailing in San Francisco, Pisco has made its triumphant return to notoriety in San Francisco

Below is a recipe that comes from the book Imbibe! by David Wondrich (which is a fantastic book on the history of cocktailing, and as a bartender has given me a wealth of knowledge). The recipe comes from Nicol's bar manager, and is for a large batch of the drink.

1. Take a fresh pineapple. Cut it in squares 1/2 by 1 1/2 inches. Put these squares of fresh pineapple in a bowl of gomme syrup to soak over night. that serves the double purpose of flavoring the gomme syrup with the pineapple and soaking the pineapple, both of which are used afterwards in the Pisco Punch.

2. In the morning mix in a big bowl the following:

• 1/2 pint (8oz) of the gomme syrup, pineapple flavored as above
• 1 pint (16oz) distilled water
• 3/4 (10oz)lemon juice
• 1 bottle (24oz) peruvian pisco brandy
• garnish with a piece of soaked pineapple

*gomme syrup is similar to simple syrup, but if it can be found it has definite qualities that enhance the drink such as giving the drink a silky, heavier finish. Again, simple syrup can be used in place of it.

Today, Pisco Punches can be found at various bars in San Francisco like the Comstock Saloon on Columbus Ave & Kearny St. This Saloon was also recently visited by Anthony Bourdain on his show The Layover.

Pisco Punch from Comstock Saloon

More popluar today among San Franciscans is the traditional Pisco Sour. This creamy drink is a staple for many of the regulars that visit where I work. Containing eggwhites to give it the frothy creamy texture, the perfect froth is not as hard to master as one may think. Here is the recipe that I use to make my Pisco Sours:

In a small mixing tin combine:

• 1 oz simple syrup
• The egg white of one egg

Remove the spiral wire from a bar strainer and place into the small mixing tin. WITHOUT ADDING ICE cover with a large mixing tin and shake vigorously for at least 30 seconds. Remove the small mixing tin and add:

• juice of 1/2 a lime
• juice of 1/2 lemon
• 2 oz peruvian pisco brandy

Add ice to the mixing tin, cover, and shake vigorously once again for at least 30 seconds.
Strain into a cocktail glass and let sit for a free seconds to allow the froth to settle. Then, add/garnish with:

• 3 - 5 dashes of bitters.   

The most important thing for me when making a Pisco Sour is the froth. When I say shake vigorously, I mean it. The spiral from the strainer should help with the beating of the egg whites.


Great Places to Drink Pisco (please comment and add to the list if you know some great Pisco spots):

• Pisco Latin Lounge
• La Mar
• Pacific Catch, (9th Ave location) recently featured an in-house barrel aged Pisco.